Discover Belgium’s most beautiful hidden waterways

A silvery mist rises from the canal, blurring the boundary between water and sky. Birds flit from the trees, tracing swift arcs across our bow as they search for breakfast. Beneath my feet, the gentle thrum of the engine signals the start of another day’s adventure.

For the next seven days, Belgium will be home. It is a country best explored by water. I’m aboard CroisiEurope’s MS Raymonde, a charming, four-anchor, 11-cabin canal barge promising both indulgence and discovery.

Our journey begins in Ghent, the beating heart of Belgium – a country famed for its dense network of waterways that wind through Flanders and Wallonia, connecting vibrant cities and charming villages from east to west and north to south.

Boarding MS Raymonde felt like stepping into a floating boutique hotel, its elegant lines and tasteful decor immediately setting the tone for the days ahead. Each cabin, though compact, was thoughtfully appointed with plush bedding, clever storage and waterline windows that invited the outside in.

Communal spaces beckoned. A sunny deck perfect for morning coffee, an elegantly decorated lounge that doubled as a library and conversation nook and a dining room where the promise of gourmet feasts lingered in the air.

The atmosphere was warm and distinctly continental, a blend of refined French charm and Belgian conviviality.

Instantly, I sensed this journey would be a gentle cruise focused on the good things in life, with cultural treasures along the canal’s banks waiting to be discovered.

Laughter afloat

Life aboard MS Raymonde was as much about the crew as it was about the scenery. Belgian purser Hans was always ready with a grin and a story, making each guest feel like family. He orchestrated our daily excursions, shared local secrets and remembered everyone’s favorite tipple.

John, the captain, whose jovial manner belied a deep knowledge of the canals, regaled us with tales of navigating narrow locks and centuries-old water lifts.

But it was the French chef, Marc, who stole the show each mealtime. Animated and passionate, he introduced each carefully planned menu with theatrical flair, describing the provenance of the ingredients and the inspiration behind his creations.

"Tonight, we celebrate Belgium’s finest," he’d exclaim, unveiling the bounties one ingredient and pairing at a time.

The chef’s enthusiasm was infectious, and his daily presentations became a highlight, setting the stage for indulgence and delight. The epicurean journey aboard MS Raymonde was nothing short of spectacular.

Lunches spanned four courses – an artful medley of French and Belgian classics. We began with delicate amuse-bouches, followed by velvety soups and vibrant salads sourced from local markets.

Mains featured succulent duck confit or tender Flemish beef stew, each dish paired with expertly selected French wines that elevated every flavor. Dinners were equally indulgent, with three courses punctuated by spirited toasts and animated conversations.

The chef’s showmanship reached its peak with desserts. Creamy chocolate mousse, airy Belgian waffles and a parade of cheeses, each accompanied by stories of their origins.

Fellow passengers exchanged travel tales and laughed at the crew’s witty quips. It was impossible not to feel pampered, enveloped by the warmth of good company and exceptional food.

The rhythm of the canals

Each day on the canals offered a new vista. The waterways were alive. Wispy trees dipped their branches, herons stalked the banks and the occasional fisherman nodded a greeting as we passed.

Early mornings were magical. Mist rose off the water, shrouding villages in a gentle haze. As the sun climbed, the countryside revealed its mosaic of fields and picturesque towns, the scenery unfolding like a living postcard. From the deck, I watched Belgium awaken. Cyclists waved from riverside paths, local children called out in joy and church bells chimed in the distance.

The rhythm of cruising was soothing. The barge glided through ancient locks and under bridges, connecting us to the landscape and its history. The gentle motion and the sound of water against the hull became the backdrop to moments of reflection and awe.

Towns, treasures and surprises

Our itinerary was a tapestry of Belgian delights.

Ghent dazzled with its medieval architecture and vibrant cafe culture. We wandered along cobbled streets, savored local pastries and admired intricate facades.

Bruges, with its fairy-tale canals and bustling squares, invited a magical afternoon of exploration, with chocolate shops tempting us at every corner.

Oudenaarde charmed with its grand town hall and tapestry museum, its history woven into every building. Peronnes-lez-Antoing delivered tranquil beauty.

In Mons, Hans led us off the tourist trail to a hidden tavern for a pint of Belgian beer, making us feel like locals. Mons surprised with its lively arts scene, and Brussels, always a favorite, enchanted with a heady blend of history and chocolate, from the majestic Grand Place to the quirky Atomium.

The Château de Beloeil, dubbed the ‘Belgian Versailles’, astounded with its manicured gardens and opulent interiors.

At the Chant d’Éole vineyard, we sampled award-winning sparkling wines. Each stop was curated for immersion, blending guided tours with moments for personal discovery.

Our itinerary brimmed with exclusive adventures – think secret passageways into centuries-old castles, private tastings at legendary breweries and vineyards and a heart-thumping ride on the Strépy-Thieu Boat Lift.

We marveled as the entire barge soared a staggering 73 meters skyward in under 35 minutes. There’s nothing quite like sipping a glass of bubbly while being gently hoisted up to the clouds – Belgium’s own answer to a slow-motion roller coaster. It is an experience only available to small cruise ships like ours.

As our journey drew to a close, the canal adventure continued with the monumental Ronquières Inclined Plane. Standing on the top deck as MS Raymonde slipped slowly down this floating conveyor belt was surreal. We glided past bright patchwork farmlands at a dreamlike pace.

Even the most ordinary sights became extraordinary from this vantage point, showcasing the surprising, playful magic that Belgium’s waterways hold at every turn.

Life aboard MS Raymonde blossomed into a microcosm of friendship. Fellow travelers hailed from France, Switzerland, the United Kingdom and Australia. Soon, we were sharing jokes and stories.

Games of cards unfolded on the deck, punctuated by bursts of laughter and the chef’s impromptu snacks. Evenings ended with wine and music, the barge aglow with warmth and the sound of contented voices. The crew’s infectious spirit united us and their attention to detail transformed every day into a celebration.

It was a floating festival, marked by indulgence and genuine connection. The sense of indulgence was everywhere, not just in the cuisine and wine but in the very spirit of the journey.

Exploring Belgium by water revealed hidden corners and unique perspectives impossible on land – there was excitement in every lock and anticipation in every new town, each moment imbued with the magic of discovery.

CroisiEurope’s MS Raymonde offered not just a cruise but an immersive feast for the senses: atmosphere, scenery, culture and friendships, all wrapped in the luxury of attentive service and superb cuisine.

Belgium’s waterways, with their tranquil beauty and vibrant towns, had revealed themselves as the perfect stage for adventure and a taste of luxury.

This canal cruise is more than a trip. It is a story to savor, an experience that lingers and a memory carried by the gentle flow of the water.