Get ready for a thrilling luxury adventure around Indonesia’s Banda Sea
As the Zodiac zips across gentle waves toward what is to be my liveaboard for the next seven days, Nala appears before me like a mirage. We step aboard, and the crew welcome us with refreshing wet towels and freshly squeezed tropical fruit juice before taking us on a guided tour of this truly unique craft.
Built in 2021 and handcrafted in traditional phinisi style, this gorgeous 34-meter vessel’s design is inspired by 20th-century Indonesian trading ships.
Blending traditional craftsmanship with modern superyacht luxury, this uniquely Indonesian boat is made of ironwood and teak, travels at a leisurely cruising speed of eight knots and boasts four spacious decks and five luxury cabins.
On our visit to the spice plantations, the fragrance of nutmeg and cloves fills the air, taking me on a sensory journey through the region’s extraordinary past.
My assigned room, the master deluxe cabin on the upper deck, is surrounded on three sides by floor-to-ceiling windows offering expansive views across the sea, and I while away the afternoon, savoring the luxury of it all.
As we pull up anchor and head south, I gaze out from my cabin’s private outdoor deck lounge and catch my breath at the natural beauty of the remote, impenetrable green jungle on either side as we pass through the strait toward the open sea.
The sun begins its glorious descent as we cruise past this exotic paradise, and I feel myself relaxing into what truly is a picture of pure tranquility.
Luxury at sea
The route we’re embarking on begins from the port of Sarong, located on the eastern tip of West Papua, travels south toward the historic and remote Spice Islands and then turns east to our final stop in Ambon.
Located roughly 2,500 kilometers east of Jakarta, the Banda Sea is a sailor’s paradise, beckoning travelers with its beauty and adventure and offering an unforgettable journey through stunning archipelagos, rich marine life and a fascinating blend of nature, history and culture.
The unique route is only possible for travel twice a year, owing to varying weather patterns and seasons within the region. This makes it a particularly exclusive opportunity to visit the Banda Sea’s most remote locales, which are almost completely off the tourist trail.
Nala’s 15-strong crew is dedicated to providing five-star service to guests, ensuring my needs are seemingly met before I’ve even had time to think of them.
I quickly discover that the Indonesian people’s renowned hospitality is next level aboard our charter. Nala’s 15-strong crew is dedicated to providing five-star service to guests, ensuring my needs are seemingly met before I’ve even had time to think of them.
Flexibility is key on Nala, and guests are encouraged to curate their own itineraries and experiences by requesting various stops, activities and additional services on their charter, which the Cruise Director will do their best to accommodate. Our group’s choice to add a dive master and an on-demand masseuse to enrich our onboard experience proves absolutely invaluable.
Nala itself is owned by LDS Voyages and managed by boat builder and charter management company Yacht Sourcing. We’re exceptionally lucky to have the Co-Founder and Director of Yacht Sourcing, Boumedienne Senous, on our voyage as our Cruise Director.
A highly experienced sea captain in his own right, Senous’ extensive knowledge of Indonesian waters and experience in servicing guests on luxury charters ensures we’re in very good hands.
By late evening on our first night, as we continue south into the open sea, the calm waters begin to grumble, hinting at bad weather ahead. I’m lulled to sleep by the roll of the ocean as we sail toward the remote islands of South Misool, located within the southern-most region of Raja Ampat.
Swimming with jellyfish
The following morning, after 18 hours on the move, we drop anchor and the main deck is abuzz with preparations as the divers in our group anticipate several scuba dives in famed dive sites nearby.
Part of the Coral Triangle, this region truly is a natural wonderland for divers and snorkelers, with thriving coral reefs teeming with an incredible diversity of marine life.
With the divers occupied underwater, I enjoy a variety of activities on the surface – kayaking in the crystal blue-green waters of lagoons and snorkeling above glittering coral to meet a colorful underwater universe of resident fish.
Part of the Coral Triangle, the region truly is a natural wonderland for divers and snorkelers, with thriving coral reefs teeming with an incredible diversity of marine life.
I also visit a small, uninhabited island and hike up a steep incline of sheer limestone amid a dense curtain of rainforest for the promise of something extraordinary. At the island’s center sits a natural turquoise lagoon filled with several rare species of stingless jellyfish; only one of three places on earth where visitors can swim with such creatures.
I snorkel across the lagoon, the water teeming with billions of peach-colored jellyfish of all sizes, thriving in this protected, fresh-water oasis. It feels like an almost mystical experience and I’m in awe as I float amid this hidden natural wonder.
I don’t want to leave this special place but my tummy is rumbling. So I make my way down the sharp decline toward our Zodiac – and toward yet another decadent lunch aboard Nala.
Tropical storm
In the afternoon, we assemble in the main galley and Cruise Director Senous advises us that a significant tropical storm is brewing in the south Banda Sea – and that Nala is in its direct path.
Consequently, he explains, some itinerary changes are necessary so we can outrun the storm. "There are a lot of unknowns right now but from the information available to us, this storm is gearing up to be a big one and your safety is our number one priority," Senous says in the meeting.
"We have a window of time to get to Banda before the storm hits, so we have to leave here very soon to ensure we get there within the next 48 hours. This will mean we may avoid the worst of the storm, ensuring a safe and timely passage to Ambon in a few days’ time."
We learn that any further delay could result in the weather causing us to be stuck in Banda for several days. Senous warns that even if we do make it to Banda in time, as the weather is so unpredictable, we should prepare ourselves for the possibility that the storm could stop us from reaching Ambon regardless.
A significant tropical storm is brewing in the south Banda Sea – and Nala is in its direct path.
Lifting anchor, we set sail toward the Maluku islands and continue and toward Banda, a few steps ahead of the tropical storm amassing in the sky above. We bunker down and travel for a solid 24 hours amid rough seas, with the captain raising Nala’s sails to further stabilize the boat.
Despite the weather, life aboard Nala is far from dull; we drink gin and tonics and chat in the main galley while our private head chef, Chandra Khairuddin, dishes up seemingly endless five-star cuisine. As the sun rises the following day, we drop anchor in the calm waters of Banda Neira and sigh with relief that we’ve made it safely.
Welcoming us to Banda is a traditional war boat, rowed by a 30-strong crew with a drummer in front to set the pace. The rowers sing us into harbor, racing us the whole way and providing a wonderful cultural introduction to these remarkable and historic islands.
Exploring banda
The small, historic island is humming with life as locals glance curiously toward us or rev past on motorbikes through narrow, cobblestoned streets. At intervals throughout the day, the local mosque calls the predominantly Muslim population to prayer, its song echoing across land and sea.
Banda Neira is just one of several small, volcanic islands that make up what is known historically as the Spice Islands. Exploring the Banda Islands is like stepping back in time, and as I stroll through the charming port of Banda Neira and on the island of Run, I learn about the inhabitants’ rich culture, history and traditional way of life, which has been closely tied to the spice trade for centuries.
On our visit to the spice plantations, the fragrance of nutmeg and cloves fills the air, taking me on a sensory journey through the region’s extraordinary past.
I visit historic landmarks, such as Fort Belgica, a 17th-century Dutch fort, and wander amid the remnants of colonial architecture and nutmeg farms, which reflect an era of exploration and conquest that has left an undeniable mark on the history and culture of these islands.
A devastating history
The Portuguese were the first foreign interest to claim the Banda Islands in the 16th century. The Dutch claimed the islands for themselves a century later, with the ambition to monopolize the nutmeg trade for the Dutch East India Company.
This plan was initially foiled by the English, who claimed the nearby island of Run for the British Empire.
To achieve their goal of monopolization, the Dutch agreed to a trade the island of Manhattan (formerly known as ‘New Amsterdam’) in the American colonies with the tiny island of Run, setting the course for England’s domination of the burgeoning new east-coast settlement in the ‘new world’.
Thereafter, the Dutch achieved full control of the Spice Islands and consequently the price of nutmeg around the world rose to astronomical levels. Hundreds of years later, the Dutch quietly left Banda during World War II and the Japanese moved in, only to pull out a short time later owing to dwindling resources for their own war efforts back home.
After a very short period of independence, the islands became part of the Indonesian archipelago and have remained that way ever since.
As I explore and experience these remarkable islands, I’m very aware of what a privilege it is to be here.
Amid this historical chaos, the local Bandanese people experienced unimaginable cruelty and horror; records of multiple massacres inflicted by the various foreign claimants over centuries abound, with those who survived fleeing the islands, never to return.
As I explore and experience these remarkable islands, I’m very aware of what a privilege it is to be here. While visitors are not unheard of in Banda, unless arriving via a long boat journey, it’s no easy feat to travel to these extremely remote and isolated islands.
While semi-regular airplane services fly from Ambon to Banda, and a long ferry journey is also available, changeable weather conditions regularly inhibit their passage.
Later that afternoon, while the divers continue their underwater adventures in several excellent diving sites nearby, I snorkel beside the island’s towering active volcano, Gunung Api.
Its last eruption in 1988 left a significant lava scar across the land, which falls dramatically into the ocean below. A thriving marine ecosystem has since sprung up on the andesitic lava flow and I’m awestruck by the sheer volume and variety of colorful marine life that have made their home in and around this former devastation.
Racing from the storm
On the evening we are to leave the Banda Islands, the skies are overcast and the smell of rain permeates the air as the impending storm makes itself known.
Just prior to setting sail, the clouds hold out for Nala’s talented private chef to delight us once again with an extraordinary buffet dinner, which we enjoy under the stars on the main deck to celebrate seven amazing days on what is our last night aboard.
Later that evening we set sail, and for 14 hours we batten down to traverse the rough seas to Ambon, and to the airport for our scheduled flights.
Having successfully navigated our way through a tropical storm and experienced awe-inspiring natural wonders above and below the water’s surface, the memories created from this adventure will truly last a lifetime.
Returning to Jakarta that evening, inspired by the exquisite food we enjoyed on the boat, I choose to dine at the new Cutt & Grill Restaurant in Pantai Indah Kapuk, Batavia – where Nala’s chef, Khairuddin, also works his culinary magic as its esteemed Head Chef.
The restaurant chain is one of several eateries operated by another subsidiary of Nala’s owners, LDS Lifestyle, and the dining experience proves absolutely exceptional – an apt ending to an extraordinary experience in Indonesia.
Having successfully navigated our way through a tropical storm and experienced awe-inspiring natural wonders above and below the water’s surface, the memories created from this remarkable Indonesian adventure aboard Nala will truly last a lifetime.