The Taste of Luxury: Joan Lee

Hotels in big cities face fierce competition when it comes to dining. With guests able to simply walk into town for a quality meal, hotels that pride themselves on elevating every aspect of a stay need a pretty serious flex if they’re going to keep people in-house for the evening.

For Sofitel Sydney Darling Harbour, surrounded as it is by a full array of top-shelf eateries, it was crucial to have a restaurant that sits comfortably alongside the five-star hotel’s luxurious amenities. With Atelier by Sofitel, it has more than done so.

"I like to combine quality produce with a touch of elegance."

Drawing on Sofitel’s French legacy, Atelier by Sofitel presents seasonal menus filled with flavors from la Republique, but with a twist. Each Sofitel location takes after a certain region in France; Darling Harbour’s is Marseille and southern France, which serves as inspiration for Atelier’s cuisine and aesthetic.

Sophisticated and Stylish

The restaurant is even aptly named, with Chef de Cuisine Joan Lee free to create a series of stylish dishes that delight diners of all tastes.

"My style of cooking is sophisticated and looks good at the same time," Lee tells The CEO Magazine. "I like to combine quality produce with a touch of elegance for deceptively simple dishes that set Atelier apart."

Running any kitchen is a tough ask, but a hotel restaurant brings with it an entirely other range of challenges and advantages. Lee, a Korean-born veteran of five-star hotel restaurants including Park Hyatt, Sheraton, Crown and Hilton, started as a junior sous-chef at Sofitel Melbourne’s No35 before moving to Sydney in August 2022.

"For me it was a great opportunity to work again with Executive Chef Sam Moore, with whom I’d worked with at Luci at Hilton Melbourne as well as No35," she says.

"We’re like a happy family, we look after each other."

"Sofitel is renowned for its high standards in whatever they do, but I think it’s the culture that really sets it apart. We’re like a happy family, we look after each other."

A close second is the freedom she’s afforded to bring Atelier’s menu to life each season. Soon after Lee’s arrival, Atelier’s culinary experiences included tender steaks, locally sourced produce and Lee’s signature dish: dry-aged duck breast.

"We hang ducks to dry for an optimal 10 days to give them a crispy skin and a deeper flavor," she says.

"I’ve made sure duck is always on the menu. At the moment, the duck breast is served with Bosc pear confit, and in winter I’ll complement the duck with shaved black truffle from a farm in Canberra, and Sauce Perigueux using Madeira."

No Less than Perfection

The Atelier team consists of 50 chefs, all held to Lee’s – and Sofitel’s – strict high standards. It’s not unusual for the group to bond over breakfast or take excursions to markets or farms when sourcing produce.

"They’re very passionate people, just like I am," she says. "There’s a hierarchy: they want to learn and it’s my job to train them. One of our junior chefs is the absolute best at cooking duck breast, but two years ago they had no idea how to do it.

"The growth and development is remarkable. I’m very proud of them."

"When you’re looking after a banquet for 200 people, you have to be super organized and delegate efficiently at a moment’s notice."

Atelier by Sofitel’s sommelier also works closely with Lee to pair her meals with the finest wines from around the world.

"They taste my menu and then get to work on the pairing. We go together side by side, like wine and a meal should," she says.

It’s all part of the constant effort to keep Atelier by Sofitel at the very top of Darling Harbour’s enviable list of high-end restaurants.

"That’s why training is important, because even with the finest produce, the people handling it have to be good enough, " Lee explains. "When you’re looking after a banquet for 200 people, you have to be super organized and delegate efficiently at a moment’s notice."

"I’ve always wanted to bring a befittingly exquisite culinary experience to guests while showcasing my artistry."

So far, the feedback from diners has been overwhelmingly positive. Lee says it’s not uncommon to hear it straight from guests themselves.

"My favorite moments are when guests come up to our open kitchen and gush about how much they’ve enjoyed their meal, or even give a cheer before departing," she reveals.

Sofitel trusts its people to deliver to the fullest extent of their abilities, and Lee feels has complete freedom to do well by her employer and patrons alike.

"I’ve always wanted to bring a befittingly exquisite culinary experience to guests while showcasing my artistry," she says.

"At Sofitel Sydney Darling Harbour, one of the most sophisticated luxury hotels in Australia, I’m able to excel in that way."